Waves and shallow water
id:
waves-and-shallow-water-294-354397
title:
Waves and shallow water
text:
When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape. After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions
brand slug:
wiki
category slug:
encyclopedia
description:
Effect of shallow water on a surface gravity wave
original url:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water
date created:
date modified:
2024-01-14T19:04:24Z
main entity:
{"identifier":"Q7975538","url":"https://www.wikidata.org/entity/Q7975538"}
image:
fields total:
13
integrity:
14